Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
